Thanksgiving Wines
Game Day is coming for foodies and wine aficionados. No, nothing that involves throwing a ball, but rather the huge entertaining production that is Thanksgiving Day.
There are few other meals that combine such dissonant components. I'm already thinking about the array of my favorite Virginia cheeses and warm, rosemary and spice roasted nuts to greet arriving guests. There's the burnished bird at the center of it all, the breast scented with lemon and herbs under its crispy skin, and the umami-rich legs guests clamor over. Sauced with decadent, savory, fatty gravy; or my modern cranberry-fig chutney with mustard seeds. And those sides! Green beans with crispy onions, or crisp roasted brussels sprouts with pancetta. My sister's "how is this not dessert?" sweet potato casserole that might give you a toothache, but I'll bet you finish your portion. Stuffing you say? There's the classic celery-rich, cooked-in-the-bird recipe, or a Southern riff with sweet cornbread. The flavors are nearly cacophonous, and we foodies relish it.
But how about those of us who are serious about wine, too? How do we pair wines when all five tastes (salty, sweet, acidic, bitter, and savory umami) are present in varying amounts, and one never knows what guests may choose to combine? This is not the time to go deep into the cellar. Leave the contemplation for simpler meals and save your mental energy for navigating tricky relatives who can't agree on anything. At this meal more than any other, we need crowd pleasing wines with enough presence to stand up and be noticed.
To start, welcome your guests with sparkling wine. It feels celebratory, but it also can seamlessly make the transition to the meal for those who may be driving and will drink only one glass. This doesn't need to be Champagne, but it should be made by that process. The label should state "Traditional Method", "Methode Traditionnelle", or "Fermented in the bottle", as well as the term "Brut" to indicate that the wine is not sweet. In this case, I would argue for wines from the US, which are much riper in their fruit character than cool-climate Champagne, but that will still show the biscuit- or brioche-like aromas that Traditional Method sparkling is known for. These wines will have high acidity, possibly balanced by an undetectable amount of sweetness, rich and creamy body from the fine mousse (bubbles), and ripe flavors of orchard fruits. They are wines that can stand up to a wide variety of cheeses, glide through fatty or creamy sauces with aplomb, and handle the diversity of savory sides on offer without losing their refreshing character. Look no further than Virginia, where winemakers are creating world-class sparkling wines that fit the bill perfectly. You won't go wrong choosing those from your favorite local wineries.
Next, you'll want a white for the table. This will be your most versatile wine. There are two troublesome factors in play with the Thanksgiving spread. First is the "5th taste", umami. This is a savory flavor that generally impacts wines in negative ways, making them taste considerably less fruity and somewhat dull; or causing the tannins in red wines, or the oak essences in barrel-aged white wines, to feel considerably more astringent and bitter.
The other factor is sweetness, which creeps into some savory sides, and is outright highlighted in others. Sweetness has an effect similar to umami, and will also make high acid wines taste tart or sour unless the wine contains some residual sugar, too. We should seek out a white wine with layered, rich fruit characteristics, no oak, and an off-dry or medium-dry level of sweetness. Two wines come immediately to mind: Chenin Blanc from the region of Vouvray in France's Loire Valley, or Riesling from the regions of Mosel or Rheingau in Germany. The Vouvray label might say "tendre" or "demi-sec" in increasing order of sweetness, but even those with no sweetness designation on the label tend to have a bit of residual sugar these days, owing to the grape's racy acidic profile. They'll offer rich orchard fruit (apple, pear, apricot) and citrus zest flavors, layered with subtle honey and savory button mushroom notes.
When choosing a Riesling, take a look at the alcohol by volume, or abv. Since sweetness most often comes from sugar in the grapes that has not been converted to alcohol in the wine (rather than sugar added before bottling), this should be about 7-8% abv to get the level of sweetness we desire. This wine will have a heady floral perfume, with intense citrus juice and peach aromas, as well as some beeswax, honeycomb, and earthy or stony flavors.
Lest your guests fret, never fear, we won't leave out the red wine! Reds are, however, the trickiest pairing. We need a red that is not high in tannins, and preferably has not been barrel-aged, which can add some bitter compounds. It should also have enough acidity to cut through fatty elements in the meal, and rich fruit that will still be impactful after umami and sweetness in the food have diminished the fruit in the wine. Beaujolais, with its "Nouveau" wine release aligned with our Thanksgiving holiday, has long been the go-to here, and it isn't a poor choice. But I prefer a little more depth of flavor to go with this dynamic meal. Two styles I reach for time and again: Barbera d'Asti from the Piemonte region of northwestern Italy; and Côtes du Rhône blended wines from France's southern Rhône valley. In both cases, you'll find wines that have low to medium tannins that are soft, not astringent. From Barbera d'Asti, we'll expect a refreshingly high acid wine with juicy black plum flavors and a hint of black pepper. Côtes du Rhône wines have medium levels of balanced acidity and showcase strawberry jam, tart red cherries, and ripe blackberries, often with a hint of licorice for depth and interest.
Now you have your pairing plan well in hand, simply head to your favorite wine shop and have a conversation with the staff. They'll be happy to hear about the wines you're interested in and what your goals are, and will no doubt put the right bottles in your hands.
Remember, if you feed someone and put a glass of well-made wine in their hand, it is an act of love for which they will be thankful. Isn't that supposed to be the point of the day?